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| Monday 8th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 1 | And finally we are off... | |
3am alarm call and our taxi came to take us to the airport, I would definately recommend Doris cabs, punctual and efficient (all be it a bit grumpy about the early job)
Our customary beer and breakfast at Weatherspoons.
We eagerly awaited our flight, and thank goodness all went to plan.
Our 9 hour flight went well and we arrived in Seattle 25 minutes early, now for luggage lotto at the baggage scrum. Seatle have nailed it, collect bags first then to passport control and immigration, almost no queues!
I always refuse to stay at a hotel with a number in its name. Say hi to Motel 6, Not the most luxurious accomodation but hey ho.
A nice dip in the pool, it was damned hot on the poolside.
Anyone for a Dosa? Dinner tonight at the Madras Dosa Corner, always keen to try something new " what is a dosa?" Ian asks our waiter.. "Its Indian crap" ( translates to India Crepe ).
This beauty was filled with bubble and squeak and served with dips and a warm spicy curry sauce.
The currys were very good, Ians looked like weird brown sludge, Mine was a Butter chicken Masala,very rich. We are exhausted so an early/late night is called for.. Goodnight dear reader xx
| Tuesday 9th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 2 | Wild horses couldn't drag me away. | |
Some New Orleans Evil eye flavoured kettle chips, whatever next?
So Burger number one on this tour, at the Dairy Queen and grill, en route to Coeur d' Elene.
Ian tries and approves this expensive offering.
So on to our scheduled view stop, The Wild Horses monument.
None of this "plaques explaining the reason and origin of these models", just a long gravel walk uphill. Ian can be observed far right waving.
Up close view of the horses.
This is a rather scary up close and personal view, of how the long distance illusion is achieved.
We checked into our hotel and evidence of the 2022 Sturgess Rally is here, we have seen a number of Motorcycles heading home from the festivities that ended yesterday.
Our first Walmart trip, snacks and drinks for the road.
Coeur d' Elene boasts a vast lake, with several opportunities to swim on the 2 mile loop walk.
The water was lovely, I'd have been more at ease had I remembered to pack my swimming costume, instead I braved the lake in a bikini top i'd been wearing and my knickers... oh well !
We completed the hilly walk and ended up at the marina and park, Ian poses with a moose and a mouse, cast in bronze.
Dinner at the Panda express... We arrived to be told the diner was closing shortly, but we were welcome to use the unlit patio area.
I think this is Ian with his beef and brocolli.
Goodnight Dear reader, until tomorrow xxx
| Wednesday 10th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 3 | The road to nowhere.. | |
Never one to turn down a hotel breakfast, the day began with a great selection of La Quintas finest.
Followed swiftly by an hour in the pool, and no we didn't get cramp and drown.
We had time to explore the old town charm of Coeur d Alene.
Complete with a quirky high street and gift shops.
Purchases were made before a stroll through the well kept gardens.
Dispite the moody sky, temperatures were in the high eighties.
A welcome drink at "The Buoy" a jolly place on the pier.
A trot around the marina.
We enjoyed admiring the yachts, as well as the passenger cruisers, taking customers sight seeing around the vast lake.
We had a long journey ahead of us around 4 hours to our next location in Kalispell Montana.
We stopped at a rangers station to ask if there were any rest stops (toilets) ahead, the ranger invited us in to use his fascilities, after which he treated us to a potted history of the region, his stuffed grizzly bear and slice if tree, which was dated back to 1323, by an off duty fire fighter with a magnifying glass and a needle.
Maureen (sat nav) then decided to take us on a mystery tour, she directed us up a gravel track which got gradually more rocky and overgrown, we went along with her for around 10 miles before giving up and selecting a longer route, adding well over 2 hours to the journey.
Ultimately we arrived in Kalispell and found a Wendys burgers open, then a final crawl to The Lonesome Dove Guest Ranch, a tiny cabin in the dark, tomorrow we will explore.
Goodnight dear reader, see you then xx
| Thursday 11th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 4 | Hey Brian! | |
Today we met the Ranch's animal population, say hello to Brian.
This is George ( Mildred was hiding ), there is also a semi tame rabbit we've named Flopsy.
Rather a bizzare breakfast set up, a full cooked jobby served by one stressed young lady, in the John Wayne themed 1970's dining room.
Glacier National Park, around an hour away is our destination.
The park boasts impressive views of the landscape, carved out by events in the ice age.
The weather could not have been more perfect to enjoy the vistas. The road through is 44 miles there and 44 miles back to the gate out.
We encountered a group of roadside tourists, eagerly photographing a stand of trees, this juvenile brown bear was enjoying teasing a moose, that was trying to enjoy some water nearby.
Ian struggled to get a parking space at the major hiking locations, the park was as reported online, simply unable to cope with the volume of visitors.
However the view points do not disappoint.
Finally bagging a parking spot we made the mile plus trip to St Marys falls.
The falls were crowded with visitors, many young folk choosing to jump from the bridge into the broiling water below. Oddly we managed to take photos that make the place look deserted.
After our long drive we spied Charlie Wongs International cuisine restaurant, a tatty shack boasting a sign saying its for sale! The food however was promptly served and delicious, all be it slightly too spicy for me as we ordered our Curry & Sechuan chicken hot.
So we plan a late arrival to the park tomorrow in an effort to secure parking at the stops we missed. Wish us luck!
Goodnight faithful reader xx
| Friday 12th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 5 | Lonesome Dove and Glacier part 2 | |
We loved this basic wee cabin, It boasts 2 bedrooms! Ian greets you from the "guest suite" or the bird box as we like to call it ..
A beautiful morning to tour our site.
The ranch offers pony treking, we declined the ponies and ventured up the trails on foot. We then sat on our porch in the sun and had a fabulous video chat with Hollie, Kirsty & Sophie, preparing to go "Out, out" the drunken photos we had later certainly seem like they had a great time.
Our final visit to Glacier national park was certainly less chaotic, the majority of traffic leaving the park 3pm plus.
We ventured round the Cedar loop, Ian thought he'd found the Cedar loo!
Cooler during the late afternoon, and missing the vast volume of visitors.
As we headed towards Logans Pass, the grey skies turned black, Ian still insisted he was going to complete the hike, I completed the hike from the comfort of the car. A rather stressful wait as the thunder and lightening rolled in.
Most of the route was well laid out with a boardwalk. Ian reminds me ( again ) it was in fact UPHILL, for approximately 1.2 miles ..My hero.
A break in the rain afforded a glimpse of hidden lake.
The wildlife is well used to visitors and kept only a small distance from Ian.
The most beautiful views greet those who brave the steep climb, and the elements.
A lucky find as we spent more time in the park than expected, everything seems to shut so early here.
The change of outfit comes as Ians t shirt was soaked through, we only had our white water outfits in the car, hence the trendy garb.
Another fab day here in Montana, off on our adventures again tomorrow..
Goodnight dear reader xx
| Saturday 13th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 6 | Cherries to Darby | |
As we travelled from Lonesome Dove, we stopped to buy cherries from some locals.
We are in Flathead country, the local tribes are fiercely proud of their heritage.
Our enroute destination, a trail uphill at Blogetts Overlook.
This is me, pre heart attack moaning mightily about the climb.
Here we are 45 minutes later congratulating ourselves on not having expired in the 85 degree heat. We met a nice chap at the top happy to take photos, ( in exchange for some shots of himself, we think for his grinder profile! )
My hero surveys the amazing views x
And here we are heading down, Mrs Veck seems much more chipper, no suggestion Mr Veck is to be shot at dawn for suggesting we go hiking.
This beautiful oasis is The Hannon House, our host and tour guide, the lovely Jason.
Off to the Knotty Nymph, also owned by Jason the owner of the Hannon House, our accomodation for tonight.
My Steak which, while expensive, was absolutely wonderful.
Our entertainment for this evening Richard Blaine, very good with his country/folksy vibe. The accuracy of his guitar playing less spot on...
Our journey home, mother nature painting the hills with light.
This is me ( In my nightie ) penning the latest blog for you.
Well dear reader another day of fun, please join us later for more.. Goodnight.
| Sunday 14th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 7 | Yellowstone Dutton ranch | |
Good morning folks a dip in the hot tub to get us going!
The not too shabby view from the hot tub.
Just 5 minutes up the road the Yellowstone Dutton ranch
The Yellowstone Series with the adorable Kevin Costner, filmed right here. We didn't manage to see any stars, on the up side we weren't chased off the driveway by any shotgun wielding security folk.
A hasty drive by shot of he house chosen by paramount, to host the Dutton families exploits.
Fettys cafe and bar.
Lunch in Wisdom. A rare sunday brunch find. Loved my Greek Gyro, Ian had the ham and cheese toasty with fries.
Follwed by a trip to the Silver Mine gift shop. Run by Darryl and his wife Kate, This couple of golden oldies made a fuss of us.
We visited Butte, a mining town with the buy line of "The most valuable hill in the USA" with its 7000 ft long x 5600 ft wide pit, the chemicals which have settled in the pit are so toxic they kill wildlife, there is a regular warning claxon and gunshot noise to scare the birds away.
From1955 til 1982 it was the USA's largest truck operated open pit copper mine.
We visited a memorial dedicated to those who lost their lives, in the granite mountain speculator fire.
After a refreshing shower we headed to main street, after a stroll we tried some craft lagers in "Plonk".
After that we headed off and found "Shred Monk" another artisan brewery, they roast all their own coffee, and brew a small selection of ales.
Ian has gone vegitarian, this is our starter of roasted snow peas in a sesame and lemon honey dip. He's looking for the meat.
Home to bed at our latest resting place The Saphire Motel, with its piped 50's music and constant aroma of cinnamon.
Well goodnight dear reader, see you when the fog lifts xx
| Monday 15th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 8 | Second day in Bozeman | |
The Gallatin National forest welcomes guests to Hyalite canyon and 2 charming trails.
Our first destination, Pallisade falls, a neat tarmac path meanders through the lush forest.
The rushing falls are a cool conclusion to the walk.
We are told its possible to reach the top of the falls via a shingle and rock trail, we decided this was far enough for us.
A relaxing downhill stroll back to the carpark and more trails.
A slightly longer and more gravelly trail takes you to Grotto Falls , equally lovely, with a series of pools below.
Easy to see that nature regularly changes the appearance of the grotto with fallen trees, victims of the unrelenting spanish moss, which blights many of the mighty pines.
Back to the Saphire Motel for a spruce up and a stroll down main street, tonights destination, the Rocking R Saloon.
We tried the "flights" of beer, eliminating our least favorites.
"Party" was our final winner.
We had a monster pile of Nachos, with everyting on, and ice cream on the way home, another great day.
Thanks for joining us dear reader, goodnight xx
| Tuesday 16th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 9 | Yellowstone | |
A not rare sighting of the Ian human in its natural habitat, McDonalds.
We went to Walmart and stocked up on drinks for our journey, and arrived in Yellowstone mid afternoon.
First stop Gibbon Falls, lovely falls (No Gibbons). The blisteringly hot air takes your breath away.
The original Golden gate, an amazing feat of 19th century engineering, tons of rock painstakingly blasted from the cliff face and hauled away by horse and cart. The bridge was rebuilt in the early 1900's and again in 1977. Each incarnation reinforcing and improving previous designs.
These amazing formations created by billions of organisms named Thermophiles. Thriving amongst toxic gasses and extremes of temperature.
As the heated water cascades over the waves of thermophiles, the light shimmers and creates exotic patterns.
We took a car ride to the "upper loop" where we could see the areas we had previously hiked, the infinity pools above, sending sheets of water over the edge of the thermophiles,
The water takes on a chalky appearance, with jade green pools.
These Obsidian cliffs are a historical landmark, throughout the centuries the natives have mined and traded the hard black stone, for tool making and ceremonial objects.
Welcome to Beryl Geyser.
Beryl belches steam and bubbles away continuously, the chemical cocktail in her depths, giving her a unique perfume of sulphur.
Interesting to see that these hardy trees had done their best, to survive these unforgiving conditions.
A disappointing dinner at Old Town Cafe, but it was cheap, good excuse for ice cream later.
Amazing weather above main street at sunset, streaks of rain in the distance and occasional lightening.
Well Goodnight dear reader, sleep well xx
| Wednesday 17th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 10 | Yellowstone, its mostly about Bison. | |
Our current home, the quite adequate Westwood Motel.
And our personal shangre-la "number 12".
Once again we enter the quite amazing Yellowstone State park, for road trip day 2.
Rapid cooling of lava, during many volcanic eruptions, starting 50 million years ago, resulted in these cliff faces resembling uneven picket fences.
Tower falls, the soft rock eroded by wind and water makes fantastic shapes.
The Yellowstone River.
The steep climb (by car) to the top of Mt Washburn rewarded us with some panoramic, if not hazy vistas.
This area known as the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, vaties in width from 800-1200feet and is around 24 miles long, the lava rock gives it its lovely colours.
Taking a breather on the breezy bridge.
Ians solo mission to Lower Brink falls.
The Stunning rainbows created by the spray and sunlight.
A 600 foot drop, in just about 3/8 ths of a mile.
The various animals we encountered include, Peka's (little rodents) Mule Deer but no bears.
We did however encounter HUNDREDS of Bison, we took a ticket only trip to Lamar Valley, where the Bison hang out.
A 40 minute traffic jam occured as we left the park, these mighty beasts are not to be hurried.
We understand the importance of the standby ambulance we passed, as 2 visitors have been seriously injured by Bison in the last few days. The Bison are currently calving, they are unusually protective at this time.
One cheeky Bison ignoring the "stay on the path" request.
The mud volcano area, boasting bubbling cauldrons of muddy water.
The Dragons Mouth billows steam from the cave entrance, accompanied by rumbles and belches from the cavern below.
A final stop at West Thumb Geyser Basin, on the edge of Yellowstone lake, could almost be the setting for an alien movie.
Bubbling pea green swamps.
Including King Geyser!
Dinner was another disappointing meal, this time at West Yosemites China town Restaurant.
Time for bed dear reader and we'd like to take a moment to give our appreciation to all commenters and contributors, we do look forward to your input. On that note, an update on yesterdays Thermopiles, that are in fact Thermophiles. Oops ( Thank you for the giggle! ) rest assured spelling has been corrected.
Goodnight xxx
| Thursday 18th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 11 | Cody and the Silver Dollar | |
A roadside breakfast picnic, beside the Madison river.
Our last visit to Yellowstone, we ended up parking on the road as the queues for the car park didn't seem to be moving.
The Grand Prismatic, a must see for all visitors. We could not have timed our visit to the region any better, whilst the park and Yellowstone West were busy, pre covid and devastating flood which had recently closed the park etc the area would have been heaving.
The largest and most colourful of Yellowstones hot springs.
Another geyser crater perfumed with sulphur.
Excelsior Geyser Crater.
Steamboat point, a stopping point on this vast lake.
The historic Irma Hotel in Cody, The Hotel named after buffalo Bill Codys daughter.
We find ourselves allocated the Agnes Chamberlin suite, decked out with oldy worldy furniture.
Ian meets up with an old friend..Buffalo Bill himself.
A rather boozy afternoon and evening in the Silver Dollar Saloon, Halo Huckleberry Honey, craft beer, gives you a pretty good headache if drunk to excess!
The Buffalo chicken salad was a bit too spicy for me, so was replaced with a caesar instead.
Goodnight dear reader xx
| Friday 19th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 12 | The Brothel Deadwood and other fun stuff | |
Very early we leave Cody on our roadtrip.
Our journey leads us through Wyoming, very quickly turning the cool morning into a scorcher.
A few pretty stops including Leigh creek, which apparently boasts a monument, we might find it next time we pass through.
Tensleep was the next town on our tick list, it boasts an impressive canyon, carved out by glacial activity.
Buffalo gave us a chance for an early lunch and driving break for Ian. The pretty town was alive with activity, we had arrived on some sort of market day.
The Busy Bee cafe is situated next to the Occidental Hotel, where we have been lucky enough to stay on a previous visit. The cafe was crowded and service slow, but the sandwiches served their purpose.
Finally we arrive in Deadwood, the historic town where Wild Bill Hickock met his fate shot witha single bullet in the back by Jack McCall, at the "Number 10 saloon", on 2nd August 1876.
Back on slimming world when we get home... Does my bum look big in this?
We enjoyed a tour of one of Deadwoods notorious brothels, still doing a roaring trade until the 1980's, our knowledgeble guide and amateur historian Kevin, took us through the seedy history of " The Purple door".
Complete with cleverly dressed rooms used by the ladies, this was an 1870's version.
We were invited to take a snap on the only bed which wasn't broken! this was in the 1950's room ( I don't think this will be a new career move! )
We came across a bus tour just about to leave and joined it for a trip round the town, and to Mt Moriah where we visited the graves of Wild Bill Hickock and Calamity Jane, 2 of Deadwoods most famous former residents.
The whole of Deadwood visible, from the top of our bus.
Finally after a long day its off to Diamond Lil's for a light dinner!!
Well fair reader, goodnight and sweet dreams xx
| Saturday 20th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 13 | There's a lot of bears. | |
First stop Sturgess, this grimey town is in the process of recovering from 10's of thousands of motorcycle nuts, having attended the Sturgess Rally.
Ian gets some pearls of wisdom from this steel Moose.
Once again we visit Uncle Louies for a welcome breakfast.
Shopping, always best with someone elses money..
Yep, purchase made, a beautiful silver bracelet made by these artists in Arizona.
And here we are, at our second home in the USA, Bear Country USA..
The drive through paddocks show us Elk, various wolves and these juvenile Reindeer.
But clearly all we are here for are these guys..
At this time the bears are finishing their moult, many of them looking dead scruffy and looking like they need a good brush
Whilst we queued to get into the bear paddock, the keepers arrived with a truck full of vegetables.
After the dining room closed, some of the furry fellas decided to take a drink and a dip.
After our drive tour finished we went to see the babies.
Once again we were lucky enough to arrive after a morning snooze..
Just as lunch was being served, some people I know would eat while sitting in their lunches if they were allowed!
These bears are approximately 4 months old and are weaned from their mothers, they move to a seperate area, as the males in the main paddock will often injure/kill the babies in the wild.
We saw some baby Wolves and I can assure our readers that , none of them have been in our car or eaten any Dorritos.
Customary "Beware of the Bears " Seat snap.
Our home for the next 2 nights " The Rockcrest Lodge & Cabins".
A cooling dip before dinner.
A short drive into town to the Buglin Bull Restaurant and sports bar, Ian had a Steak in whiskey cream sauce and for myself Buffalo sirloin tips.
Our booth contained our personal TV, so Ian tuned it into the Grand Ole Oprey and watched the show as it aired.
Goodnight dear reader, thanks again for following our adventures xx
| Sunday 21st August 2022 | |||
| DAY 14 | Crazy Horse! | |
Today we visited the native american version of Mount Rushmore.
The cliff face you saw will one day have a rendition of Crazy Horse and his steed dashing across the skyline.
When we were here 10 + years ago, the carving was not much more complete than you see here.
The finished article is unlikely to be available to see in our lifetimes.
The image which will always now be known as that of Crazy Horse is extremely speculative, no photos are conclusively him, so an amount of this likeness are taken from spoken word, he had a big nose, he had funny hair.
Our guide Gary, a Lakota tribesman, born on a reservation, and later schooled off reservation, has a unique insight into the culture of the native and the impression the white man has of him.
The museum is home to in excess of 11,000 artifacts including photographs and jewellery. ( No, I didn't buy any! )
We enjoyed the static exhibits, and a short film about the sculptor and his unique relationship with Chief Henry Standing Bear. The Chief realised that the future of his nation lay in education and understanding, he commissioned the undertaking insisting only that it be situated in the Black Hills.
The first blasting took place in 1948, and the face unveilled in 1998 long after Koreczak Ziolkowski, the sculptor had passed away.
Koreczak Ziolkowski, a self taught award winning sculptor, decided to accept the commission. Later he was assisted by a young woman named Ruth who later became his wife and they went on to have 10 children, all of his sons became involved with the carving and excavation, his daughters assisting their mother in the early visitors and domestic goings on.
The museum fills the original cabin built by Koreczak Ziolkowski and his family, over the years many additions were made, adding a rudimentary visitors centre.
This is the intended final appearance of the piece.. The face of Crazy Horse stands at 87.5ft tall.
We drove back via Custer State Park, we quickly realised we had driven its beautiful roads before.
A second evening at the Buglin Bull Restaurant and sports bar, we sit at the bar waiting for our usual booth to be free.
Tomorrow we head off on further adventures, goodnight dear reader. xx
| Monday 22nd August 2022 | |||
| DAY 15 | Custer to Estes | |
We waved goodbye to the cabin and left the cleaning ladies a gift.
Maureen suggested a lovely bicycle sculpture, as this was likely to be the highlight of our long ( 5.5 hrs ) journey, we made a good deal of effort to get some smashing shots, tripod out etc... This was the best we coud do.
The Plains of Wyoming are the home to thousands of cattle, the roadsides decorated by bales of hay, recently harvested. The land is flat and currently baked dry.
We happened upon the town of Lusk, this rather uninspiring looking building actually housed one of the best cafe's we have used this trip.
Not only do they offer the usual fare, they offered a great mexican selection and some fab specials, the burger melt was a hit, oozing with cheese.
We had a lovely chat with Hollie, who was enjoying fish and chips with Nanny and my Ron, I celebrated this occasion with a lunchtime frozen Margarita..I know how to spoil myself.
After a few more hours the scenery began to look more varied, we left Wyoming and arrived in Colorado, The Rockies National Park welcomed us with rushing roadside rivers, and rocky canyons.
The bustling town of Estes, very much caters to the tourists with some interesting gift shops, sweet and Ice cream establishments, Bars and grills.
We settled into the Discovery Lodge Estes, with our Mountain views, now switched off for the night. Dinner, chosen by Ian (no shit Sherlock) at the Himalayan Curry and Kabob place.
The food was spicy and plentiful, after Ian had his fix we returned to our home for the next 2 nights, to enjoy the view of the petrol station and hotel opposite... Well you don't pay extra for a balcony and mountain views to sleep with the curtains shut!!
Goodnight intrepid reader, we so enjoy your company on our adventures, sleep well xx
| Tuesday 23rd August 2022 | |||
| DAY 16 | Rocky Mountain National Park | |
We had a timed entry pass for The Rocky Mountain National park, and arrived early, the nice park ranger lady let us in anyway.
First stop a trip to Bear Lake, the parks most popular attraction, probably because the whole trip round is a nice flat half mile, lots of parents with tots and grandparents, enjoying the Rockys version of Petersfield Lake
This old couple made short work of the lovely little walk, nice and cool too.
Bear at Bear Lake.. Nothing more to say.
We were spoilt for choice, the Bear Lake Road offers lots of, not too strenuous walks.
Slightly more energetic, the uphill hike to Nymph Lake.
Beautiful in the morning sunshine, Nymph Lake is home to a colony of lily pads, and some cheeky chipmonks.
After this innocent hike we opted to drive up a 9 mile unpaved track, The Old Falls River Road, between 1920 and 1932 the only road leading to one of the highest points in the park. The Alpine Summit.
The road rises around 3000 ft. Hairpin bends and switchbacks still challenge todays mororists, Ian and I named it "the brown trousers road". However the stunning views make it all worth while.
Chasm Falls, sparkling brilliantly in the sunlight, a steep climb down from the busy road.
Longs Peak a flat topped mountain, used by natives and travellers alike as a reference point in the giant park.
As we finished admiring Longs Peak, the clouds began to gather and the temperature fell.
We spied some Reindeer in the distant bushes.
Our hire car had a welcome shower, the roads became glassy and we made a very careful exit from the park.
Ian is tired after the hours of careful driving, so a take away pizza is our reward for the day.
Thanks again for joining us dear reader xxx
| Wednesday 24th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 17 | Buena Vista via Pikes Peak. | |
Goodbye to our Discovery Lodge Hotel, and its Canada Geese.
A long drive for Ian through Colerado, the city of Denver seeming never ending. Once free of Denver we soon crossed into Arkansas.
Our destination Pikes Peak state park.
We encountered roadworks , love this signal with its automated stop/go flag.
The roads we find are now fully paved, on our last trip 14 years ago, the roads were terrifyingly gravel.
The stunning views across the surrounding countryside, first viewed by US Army Lieutenant Zebulon Pike who gave his name to the mountain, the first european American to document the peak.
Natives have long used the peak to navigate and have their own names for it.
We met some long horned sheep along the way who would not turn around for their photo opportunity, oh well, bottoms up!
The air is 40% less oxygenated at the peak, It doesn't take long for an odd bout of dizzyness.
Recently the US army Geologists discovered the peak had grown to it's new height of 4302.31 metres. Actually the mountain hadn't grown but the system of measuring had become more efficient. Using "Geoid" a representation of the earth determining sea level, several other Colorado features received boosts to their heights
The summit offered the most spectacular views and after taking in the best of them, we made our careful voyage down.
Time to move on to tonights stop in Buena Vista, we arrived late so after a shower we ventured out for dinner at The Jade Garden Restaurant, just a few moments from "home".
We are staying in a tiny cabin in a side street in downtown Buena Vista, we will take some pics tomorrow.
Goodnight dear reader, thank you for following us xxx
| Thursday 25th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 18 | St Elmo's ghost town | |
Good morning from our tiny cabin.. Note the roadside BBQ we probably won't use.
Another sun shiney start to the day.
Welcome to St Elmo a ghost town. Like so many small 19th century mining towns, the gold rush encouraged settlers to build homes in these remote places.
The town is being revamped by the historical society, and a team of volunteers. Life carries on alongside these endevours, with the real life inhabitants trying to scratch a living.
Most of the interactive displays were closed during covid and are yet to reopen. We learned a little of St Elmos history, the unlucky place was dogged by several fires during the late 1800's.The Stark family who's members stayed for around 75 years, working the mining ventures and running the hotel.
Over the years many local and state grants, have enabled the volunteers to stabelize these sagging structures, to the tune of hundreds of thousands of dollars.
One of the many outhouses.
Ian met the colony of chipmonks that hang out by the general store, which coincidentally sells chipmonk food.
Still with the sun shining we head on to cascade falls.
A refreshing roadside stopping point.
Ham sandwiches at Independance Pass , great continental divide.
Thats when the heavens opened, temperatures plummeted to 41 degrees and hail pelted our car.
Home and out again for dinner at The Lariat, Fish and Chips for Ian and a chicken sandwich for me.
Goodnight fair reader, thank you again for joining us on this ride xx
| Friday 26th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 19 | Monarch Crest and the great laundry scandal | |
Good bye Pleasant (but tiny) Cabin and Ians new friend, Ninja the cat.
The best description of our journey would be " Overcast ".
An unexpected surprise, The Monarch Crest Scenic Tram rides, and bugger me I'm a senior.. $2 off for me!
We imagined ourselves in a teen disaster movie, as the ancient cable car pods lurched upwards.
At the top a crudely crafted interpretation of the great continental divide. The temperature a frosty 38 degrees, the attendant at the top warned of snow if the figures tumbled more than another 4 degrees.
And a misty view of Pikes peak, quickly disappearing in the clouds.
Our journey down caused quite a stir to my earings, however with not too much fuss we hit tera firma, and claimed our free pop corn at the expansive gift shop.
Off we go and encounter the worlds longest roadworks, having queued for a while, we spent 12 minutes travelling their length, areas of sheer drop roadway, having crumbled away the crews were carving further into the cliffs to widen the road.
After checking into our hotel the Bleak ( sorry Black ) Canyon Motel, with its constantly refilling cistern and groaning AC, we travelled to the Museum of the Mountain west.
The brainchild of Dick Furman who we met. Dick always dreamed of opening a museum and began his extensive collection aged 4 with an old clock.
We saw a certain Mothers 2023 collection showcased amongst the antiques.
Some new window display ideas...
The Lutheren church which still hosts weddings on site.
Dick has in excess of 500,000 objects in his collection, some bits found in outhouses, including glassware and handguns. Many of the buildings and transportation items donated by local folks.
Ian got caught short and found a timely outhouse!!
My only chance of a laundry on this leg of the trip, Mr Lee Wongs collection of Laundry equiptment circa 1900 to 1940's.
Tonights lucky winner, Guru's Nepalese and Indian restaurant, at the better end of town (we is posh!).
Goodnight one and all, sleep well, Ian has given me his cold, so my turn to keep him awake with an attention seeking cough xx
| Saturday 27th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 20 | Going to see an old friend | |
Just before leaving the Bleak Canyon Motel we have a call with Mum, Ian is just showing her the best bit, the car park with the motorway running by.
First stop, The Black Canyon of the Gunnison, a very interesting little state park, while still covering thousands of acres, it has a smaller feel to it.
We set off around the more accessable South rim, after the visitors centre, we press on to " Cross Fissures". Ian explores the rocky outcrops.
He was rewarded with this stunning view of the Canyon.
The aptly named Chasm view, the routine seems to be, another half mile drive will bring you to another view point, with a short walk to a lovely vista.
Sometimes the next view point and its visitors, are visible across the canyon.
The Painted walls.
And on we go, the terrain is now unmistakably Utah, Welcome to Hartley Dome. Rest stop with a view
Here we are again, I am excited to report that the old place has had a facelift and a bit of TLC from the new owners.
Dinner on Main street at Zak's. Last Saturday Moab was the victim of a flood, caused by unpresidented rainfall. Evidence of the flood and the massive clean up is everywhere, we took a stroll along a cycle path, next to a small creek, the water is now gone but ripped up trees litter the creek bed, and lengths of railing are pulled up and matted with debris.
Can't look at this without hearing the muppet theme in my head!
Goodnight dear reader, lets see what tomorrow brings xx
| Sunday 28th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 21 | Arches and a UTV | |
The day begins with a stroll along Moabs main street.
Another opportunity to witness the after effects of the flash floods, and the ongoing clean up.
Back to our favorite hotel for a dip in the pool.
Arches National park have also adopted the timed entry system, we arrived at 2pm and passed through the entry kiosk reasonably swiftly.
Ian's plan for today, the 3 mile round trip to Delicate Arch, Utah's State symbol.
Early into the hike he passed Wolfe ranch aka "Fred's House" restored from the original 19th century ranch.
As you can see the trail is really well defined ( Not ).
Not too many people on the trail today.
Finally success, The Arch attracts many visitors each year. Not me as the 2-3 hour hike in 90 plus degree heat did nothing for me, the car looks nice and tidy now though ..
We passed the 3 sisters, on our return journey.
Moab Tour Company, meet our knowledgable and hyper enthusiastic guide (Lets call him Issac as we never got his name).
We joined their Hells Revenge UTV Sunset tour. Meet my driver Ian, I got his name ok.
After driving the UTV through the streets of Moab, the deafening engines of our convoy must drive the locals mad! We arrive at the area designated for Jeeps UTV's (utility recreation vehicles) and the occasional hummer. Issac called these rock spines " The Roller Coasters ".
The wheels of the vehicles grip the sandy rock really well, our instruction was to stay within 1 car length of the UTV ahead, so that we could drive as closely as possible in their tracks, although the bonnet of the car is often higher than our line of vision!
This is the Devils bathtub, no one is allowed to drive into it, the black tyre marks all around show that rule is a bit loose.
Issac told us that a guy brought his brand new custom UTV to the site a week before, drove in and flipped over, had to be winched out.
The Colorado River winding through the canyon, presently low and muddy.
The Sunset tour begins to live up to its name, the shadows creeping in.
2 other couples were with us on our journey, the guide in his 4 seater (you can go with him if you're a chicken) we were car 3 of 3, in 2 seaters.
The views, beautiful anytime, take on a magical golden red glow as the sun sets.
Back to Zak's for a late dinner, pizza and a beef Hobo (roast beef sandwich with chilli and an oxo type dip).
Goodnight dear reader, sweet dreams xx
| Monday 29th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 22 | The Launch debacle and goodbye Moab | |
Before dawn cracked, Ian set himself up to watch the 6am launch of NASA's "Artimis" sadly the take off never took off ...So here we are on our way, Apache Motel hoodie purchased.. The Utah highway gives a multi coloured sand and rock display on our long journey.
The rocks form an extraordinary array of alien style formations.
Lunch at Popeyes a Louisiana themed, fast food chicken fest.
Continuing our homage to "Yellowstone" The Costner series, we stopped by the Outlaw Saloon Ogden, used as a nightclub location in the production.
Our next stop off the Cobblestone inn and suites, with its "worlds most complicated check in system", in Soda Springs.
The area boasts a hot spring which performs on the hour, every hour.
Early settlers drilling down for oil, were dismayed to find a mighty hot spring.
Many have tried to harness the 72 degree flow, however their efforts have resulted in this interesting feature.
As night draws in at Soda Springs, the stars shine brightly.
Dinner and a beer at Porters Restaurant and pub, before a date with a washer and dryer. We now have pants!
Goodnight dear reader, til tomorrow xx
| Tuesday 30th August 2022 | |||
| DAY 23 | The Chesterfield chain reaction. | |
An early start as lots to do, arrived in the ghost town of Chesterfield Just after 9, sadly things don't start til at least 10 and we are on a mission.
Then an older couple arrived, who are seasonal volunteers. Terri said she has been a guide for the past 2 summers, is now part of the maintainance crew with her beloved husband, with the permission of a current guide, she volunteered to take us on a personal tour.
Onboard her trusty golf cart, we begin at the house of James and Ruth Davids, James (ex military) had come to work for Ruths adopted father when Ruth was 13. When Ruth was 14 James asked her father if they could be married, he said no they must wait until Ruth was 16.
Ruth and her brother were full bred native americans, and were adopted by Ruths Dad after their natural father had knocked the door and said he was selling them, they were exchanged for a mule and a sack of grain, and saved from a life of slavery in Mexico.
Ruth's handywork including these quilts, pillow cases and embroidered artwork are on display in the lovingly restored property. Ruth and James went on to raise 6 children in this tiny cabin.
The Mormon Pioneer Village and Oregon Trail site, is owned by the Mormon church, Our Guide told us a little of her faith and family beliefs.
Next stop, The Ruger Dug out, The rear original part of the property was a literal dug out, Mr Ruger a foreign music professor, lost his job when he joined the Mormon church, he struggled to learn English and the dug our was a last resort to house his family, in later years an upper extension was added where his 6 children slept. One child founded Maverick, a petrol station company, another child a successful chain of hotels.
The last member of the family still lived in the dug out until the 1940's, when her children built her a house a few hundred feet away, she conceeded that it was the first winter she hadn't felt cold.
Our final stop, the Mansion house built in 1909, still occupied until the 1950's and a time capsule of the period.
The lovely Terri took us through every detail, the house was made ready for electricity, but was never connected up as power never quite made it to the town in time, plus this was the 1st home to boast a telephone.
This torturous looking instrument, is a hairdressing accessory!
Our journey continues, we passed through a derelict town called Atomic City. A town once inhabited by the workers from the nearby power plant.
Finally EBR1. The first place in the world to generate atomic power.
We were welcomed by a young man on loan from the local power plant, seems the office folk get a chance to man the museum, during the season when the college interns are back in school.
Armed with our guide sheet we head to the control room, we are encouraged to play with all the switches and levers, most importantly the " Scram " button. The all important instant shut down of the reactor core in case of problems.
Though now totally safe, all of this equiptment is real, here is Ian directly over the reactor head.
On 20th December 1951, the 1st power was created from the nuclear fission and channeled into powering 4 light bulbs, 21st Decomber 1951 the whole power plant was powered by the energy created.
The bulbs were put back into storage, however a few weeks later the FBI were sent in with finger print kits to establish, exactly which bulbs were used, as the government realised the historic importance of the event.
The Mad scientist!
These 2 reactors, slowly rusting in the parking lot are most of what remains of a plan in the late 50's, to produce a nuclear powered bomber.
USA believed that Russia already had this technology, and were trying to create a plane that could remain airbound for long periods of time. Many tests were done, including dropping test reactors to see how strong the casings were.
The pilots would be in a shielded cock pit, with a massive reactor in the fussilage, hopefully in the air for 120 hours or more.
When Kennedy became President in 1960 the whole thing was scrapped, the planes would have needed a 3 mile runway and would struggle to take off with the massive weight, but most importantly, they learned the Russians didn't have the technology either!
At last we get to Craters of the Moon National park, first stop " Inferno Cone Overlook".
Ian braved the steep gravelly climb, and was rewarded with views across most of the park.
A short climb to the top of a splatter cone, the result of a final belch of magma, being flung through the air, during the volcanic action some 2000 years ago.
Last adventure, the Indian Tunnel, reportedly a safe haven for the colonies of bats that call the park home.
We were accompanied by a pigeon, and this small ratty fella, no sign of bats though.
The tarmac path across the rocky park was blisteringly hot, the caves delightfully chilled.
The Budget Motel, Burley is tonights resting place, Ian found the only chinese in town.
Even Ian struggled with the sheer quantity of this lovingly cooked fare, the chef coming out regularly to check on us, our chatty local waitress, fascinated by our travels and tales of England.
Another fun packed day dear reader, hope we see you again tomorrow, goodnight xx
| Wednesday 31st August 2022 | |||
| DAY 24 | Pendleton and a pub crawl | |
Goodbye Budget Motel Burley, its going to be a long day of driving for Ian.
As we entered Oregon the scenery changed a little, as well as the acres of farming land, we passed through the occassional forested area.
A burger king pit stop for lunch, as we are making good time.
Snake river, the first body of water we have passed for several days.
Americans "best" budget motel welcomes us with a sparkling clean room, but the sad news that their pool isn't open.
So off to explore..They love their bronze statues here, Meet "Req" 36 years high school football coach.
One of these 2 is Chief Clarence T Burke, dubbed "The most photographed Indian Chief in history", if you say so.
Jackson Sundown, Nephew to Chief Joseph and well known on the Rodeo circuit.
Its mighty hot out 98 degrees, so a cold one (or 2) in The Packard Tavern, chatting with the locals.
Main Street offers the usual bars and burger joints, nothing much different seems to be open on a wednesday.
Dinner at "Joes Fiesta". Some Uber salty Taco's and Fajitas, washed down with of course, more beer.
Final stop, The Rainbow, another saloon where I tried a "Moscow Mule", as a lot of the ladies seemed to be ordering this interesting cocktail.
Well goodnight dear reader, we are slightly squiffy and looking forward to more adventures tomorrow xx
| Thursday 1st September 2022 | |||
| DAY 25 | Underground life in Pendleton | |
Good morning from this fine looking fellow, Ken our 90 year old guide at the Airforce Museum.
This tiny store front holds a wealth of Airforce history.
As well as a vast collection of ammunition and hand grenades, from almost every nation and era, we could have stayed hours and Ken would have loved us to.
Our day continues at Pendletons famous underground tours.
Before we get going we watch a fascinating video about Duff Severe, locally apprenticed as a saddle maker, during his long life he made exquisite saddles and is exhibited in the Smithsonian Museum. During his later life he began making these miniature replicas, all fully working.
Matt, our guide takes us into the street and down into the Shamrock bar.
The bar is open on a saturday night only, otherwise its a dedicated museum. Matt told us how the bar men and waitresses would increase their tips, by "dropping" flakes of gold dust to collect later once the drunken patrons had left.
Under the town the labyrinth of tunnels spreads under the candy store and ice cream parlour, set up true 1940's style.
The Empire Meat Co and its inovative ice producing system, using an amonia pump, enabled them to keep meat fresh for much longer periods.
We visited the tunnels used by the small population of Chinese workers. As in many locations, the Chinese were banned from being outside overnight. They worked and lived in these dark cramped rooms.
They even had their own court system for petty crimes, and their own jail.
A porcelein pillow recovered from the tunnels, used in the opium dens.
Then on to the Cosy rooms, the inevitable brothel. The building was sealed shut by the city for 45 years, once reopened much of it had been water damaged.
Betsys room, the girls had a non working bedroom each, as well as their "business" rooms.
Horsetail falls, Columbia River gorge.
This park runs parallel to a very noisy railroad, 80 plus freight carriages thunder past these beautiful falls.
Just a short drive to Multnomah Falls and its fab bridge, Ian climbed up and I was duty photographer.
A close up view of the falls, then back to earth for an ice cream.
Finally we arrive in Kelso, this Best Western is our final stop for 2 nights. Dinner at the China Garden, a debacle with our credit card cleans us out of cash.. Good job we are going home soon!
Goodnight faithful reader, see you soon xx
| Friday 2nd September 2022 | |||
| DAY 26 | Return to Mt St Helens. | |
I see no ships!
Elk viewing point, we saw no Elk until a volunteer came and trained our telescope in on a group of Elk, apparently enjoying a patch of shade..Then we saw no Elk, just a distant wobbly shadow or 2!
This is our second visit to Mt St Helens, first being in 2009. It is difficult to imagine anything more astonishing than the picture postcard beauty of this volcano pre 1980, then to see it in the flesh some 42 years later, with both its ediface and surrounding landscape totally altered.
Coldwater Lake created by the eruptions in 1980, some of the signage invites the reader to imagine the lake in 10/20/30 years with established plant and animal life. We saw today this has all come true.
This Lake was created from the overspill from Spirit lake. A vast landslide from the eruption filled Spirit lake raising it by about 200 feet and doubling its surface area. A channel was later created to drain some of the lakes water and Coldwater Lake was born.
Today was particularly hazy, but this illustration gives an idea of then and now.
On May 18th 1980, the first of a series of eruptions occured, the devastating landslide took the lives of 57 people.
Instead of exploding straight up, the eruption blasted through the north side of the volcano sending ash, rocks and ice hurtling down the northern slopes and onwards.
The small hills you can to the left are "hummocks", they are intact pieces of the mountain, carried along by the initial explosion and littered along the way.
Our final night in town, so I chose The red lobster.
I also chose an enornous frozen Marguerita.
And a Lobster dinner, this gal doesn't do things by half!
Ian seems overjoyed with his fish 'n chips.
Well friends we will try to make a final post tomorrow, it has been our greatest pleasure to share the last few weeks with you. Special mention to our contributors, Gareth (never failing to give us a giggle), Jan for her encouragement, Caroline for her wit & Tourettes, my Min .. Love you all xx
| Saturday 3rd September 2022 | |||
| DAY 27 | A last farewell | |
We wake to rain, clearly the gods are trying to tell us something!
After a final dip in the pool, we are on our way. The weather has improved and our 2 hour journey to Seattle is much more enjoyable.
We passed the Tacoma Dome, hoping to host Elton John at a future point, according to its signage.
We return our trusty steed to the Budget rent a car shop, we have travelled some 5287 miles in these 26 days, and apart from Ian having to change the oil and rotate the tyres in the last few days, it has been without incident.
A final beer and burger before take off, which will hopefully go without hitch.
Goodnight faithful reader, maybe you will join us again another time. xxx